A Catalytic Trip

#52Weeks2017 - Week 22

Traveling has become something I think about day and night. It very well may be second place on the list, right below photography. And just like almost everything I do, traveling for me has become more than sightseeing the most popular landmarks, as that barely touches the surface of what traveling is. For me. I realized this during my second trip to Puerto Rico.

The weeks prior to the trip, I planned our stay in Puerto Rico. I wanted to explore hidden gems that were less populated but just as beautiful. I also booked our stay in a humble fisherman's town walking distance from Playa Fortuna in Luquillo. The first time around we stayed at the Wyndham in Rio Grande. I knew the commodities and amenities would be nothing close to the resort this time around but I didn't care. That is what I was actually looking for. As long as we had a bed, a bathroom, and air conditioning I knew we would be fine.

I also had planned to shoot some portraits. I wanted to capture the faces of locals in the beautiful island, as well as observe how they lived and their culture. All of this was to be captured through my lens. Never in a million years did I think that the trip would be a catalyst for my photography journey, as well as for me.

Upon my arrival to the Air BnB we noticed the sweeping difference from our previous stay at the Wyndham. This time as we drove looking for where we were staying we came across stray dogs playing and chasing each other, chickens clucking around, and children running barefoot. It was everything I wanted to see and experience. But not only was our setting beautiful, our Air BnB hosts were the sweetest people ever. My trip had started off on the right foot and I was thrilled to be back at the island that had stolen my heart the first time I came.

Our first morning we decided to wake up early to catch the sunrise in Playa Fortuna. Little did I know this would be the inception of what would change my purpose in photography and me as a person. After watching the spectacular sunrise as sunrises promise to be, we walked down to "La Boca", a corner where the river, Rio Grande, and the ocean meet. We laid down our belongings, including my camera and tripod at sight and then walked and swam early in the morning in cold river water and the warm, salty ocean. We were alone. The river and the beach was all to ourselves. Or so we thought. Far in the ocean, to our left, we saw a fisherman. He was there all the while we were. But he was so far from us we would forget about him from time to time. Around 10 am he was done fishing and as he was leaving he warned us to stay close to our belongings. He said that even though it was safe there, it's better to stay close and keep an eye on it. This was the beginning of our trip.

His name is Evaristo. Tato, to family, friends and everyone in town. That morning when we met him as he was leaving we got caught up in a conversation. So much that he forgot he had to go home, and we forgot about the beach and the river. Suddenly his words and his fishing pole were much more interesting. He crossed the river to a mangrove to make sure it was shallow enough for us to cross. So we did. After crossing the river and talking to him I asked him if I could take his portrait. He loved the idea and posed for my camera with his fishing pole dug into the sand and a coconut next to him. After the first few portraits we continued to talk and I got carried away taking more portraits. These were candid shots. I loved them even more.

At the end of our conversation he pointed to his 'yolita' (little boat) and offered to take us deep into the river whenever we wanted. As we walked out of the beach he showed us around. He pointed to 3 story buildings and houses destroyed by the ocean on the right side of the beach which had no entrance. He taught us about the power of the ocean and how the ocean, sooner or later gets back what belongs to her. The buildings and houses were built without the 'ocean's permission' taking away its space. Giant walls were put up to avoid destruction. What took months to build and a few years to enjoy, the ocean took back what belonged to her in a matter of two nights. Once again this brought about another long conversation about all that we do to our Earth. We then walked Tato home, a block away from where we were staying. He told us to knock on his door whenever we wanted to go into the river and explore Rio Grande. His Rio Grande.

Two days later we went looking for him and off we went to explore the depths of Rio Grande in his 'yolita'. As he rowed his boat he pointed to all the lizards, turtles, birds, and crabs we found along the way. He gifted us with facts about the the trees and plants and his beautiful island. The island he loves. As we went further in, he asked us if we wanted to swim. I was a little skeptical at first but Tato looked down and studied the water, he dove in and reassured us it was safe. I trusted him, and in we went. We swam in some remote location of Rio Grande. No pristine beach has ever compared to this water, to this moment, and to the company we had.

As we swam, Tato remembered we had never had coconut water before, and so he found a large stick and began to hit a coconut palm tree. He brought down four coconuts and with his bare hands and a rock he made a hole at the top of two coconuts for us to drink the water, and pealed the other two so we can eat the flesh.

While in the water, three of us only. Tato told us his story. He was born in the same house he lives in now. He moved to Philadelphia at the age of 35 and spent 15 long years in Philly. Every single day while in Philly he dreamt of the life he now has. He dreamt of fishing, sitting on his hammock, living in his home, in his island, and eating the reaps of his crop and the fish of the day.  I will forever remember when he said "I rather $500 a month here, than $5,000 over there." The organic simplicity of his life and the island that watched him grow is the definition of happiness for him.

Tato not only gave us an exquisite tour of Rio Grande, he also went out of his way to find maracuya (passion fruit) for me as I was literally dying to have some. He gave us 'tostones de pana' to try and we now like them even more than regular tostones. Sadly, I highly doubt we can find them in the states. Yet another reason to go back.

Tato was by far the realest and best tour guide we could have ever looked for. He has no reviews on Yelp, no tour company, no tour guide title or income from it. But he introduced to us the real Puerto Rico, and showed us the rawness of the island through his wise words, actions, and humble and beautiful tour that came from the bottom of his heart.

Tato gave my photos a story to tell. Yes, the story includes all that he showed us and his wise words, but for me the story is more about passion. I, myself found passion in photographing stories about raw passion and happiness. In whatever shape of form it looks like for my subjects. He taught me that just as I am looking for mine, and he went back to his, others are looking for theirs, don't have a clue yet, or have found it and are fighting for it or living it.

Thank you Puerto Rico; but most importantly, thank YOU Tato.